How To Remove The Fuel Heater Pre Filter 1997 Dodge

The maintenance schedule in the owners manual indicates the "strainer" should be cleaned at 12000 mile intervals at the same time the fuel filter is replaced. This is for both the "A" and "B" maintenance schedules.

In the instructions in the service manual for replacing the fuel filter it states "Whenever the fuel filter is being replaced, the pre-filter in the fuel heater associates should be removed and cleaned". In the instructions for cleaning the pre-filter the cleaning of a "screen" is mentioned. So it seems that this "screen" in the service manual is one and the same every bit the "strainer" in the maintenance schedule.

Debris in the screen can restrict fuel period and result in low engine power.

Individual gaskets and parts for the prefilter associates are not available, but a pre-filter repair kit is available from:
Contrivance dealers for $42 Part number 04762962.
Cummins/Fleetguard for $6 Part number 3845400-due south.

Information technology consists of a strainer screen, gasket for the sediment bulb and a pocket-sized pressed steel nut.

The parts guy did not know what I was talking about, took quite a while and a lot of polite diplomatic discussion earlier he let me look at the diagrams and betoken information technology out to him ( have a Xerox copy of that folio of the service manual!)

Before I started working on it, I sprayed the whole area effectually information technology with using the Spray Can version of GUNK engine cleaner, and and so stuck a hose nozzle in there and blasted it make clean.

Before de-gunking ->

Much improve afterwards de-gunking.

Only two wrenches are needed to practice this job – 17mm, 24mm

The first is a 17mm open/box wrench with a 12pt box end. The 17mm box cease of this will exist used to remove the screen/sump associates. Much improve if one stands up beside the truck and works from the summit. I thought it might baste and Nedra doesn't similar oily stuff on the driveway so I put my oil change pan – a huge diameter 4 gallon one under the pre screener location. Highly recommended because a few ounces of fuel will drain out when the strainer sump is removed.

[Sediment Bowl lesser]

If you lot loosen it from below, exist gear up for fuel in the face – it "will" drip all over you and if you spill it you lot will be doused with half a cup of Diesel. Some people report that a long extension with a u-joint allows y'all to stay out of the fuel menstruation when the nut is loosened. Others tin achieve the nut from in a higher place.

[Dirty strainer inside basin]

The 2nd is a 24mm box wrench or socket to remove the pressed sheet metal nut that holds the strainer in place (inside the sump). It isn't much more than finger tight, just if you aren't bionic and need a wrench – 24mm is the size. One time I got it off I cleaned information technology up with a rag. It was non particularly muddied.

[Disassembled fuel strainer]

The gasket had started to crumble around one corner of the outer border. It probably could take been reused but since I had a new role, I installed it. I also installed the new strainer – they come together in a kit with strainer, gasket, and nut. I saved the old ones in a self sealing plastic sandwich handbag.

[Cleaned Basin and New Strainer Parts]

When I replaced the thing I pre filled it with clean fuel to minimize the number of strokes that would exist required on the hand priming pump. The pre filling likewise immune me to lubricate the new gasket with some diesel fuel before installing it. I stood on a little rubbermaid stool to give me meliorate access and was able to get information technology into position and the threads started with out spilling more than a couple of drops. I ran it up finger tight so using the 17mm box end I tightened information technology snug but did not go into a contest of wills with it – it was not all that tight when I took information technology off and it is a safe gasket – so I used that as a gage for how tight to get in when I put it back. I gave the priming pump about a dozen strokes and so started the engine. It ran smooth with out whatsoever roughness as if air bubbles were going through information technology. Pretty easy to do, all things considered. I probably won't look into it over again other than as part of trouble shooting should there be a trouble until it gets to 200K. As the pictures I took prove, my usual fuel dealer has clean fuel – there was not much in there.

Fitch In Southern California

Posted to the TDR Forum by Mikepvg: While the strainer assembly is removed, cheque the Fuel Heater Chemical element quad O-ring gasket on meridian of the heater element for signs of deterioration. After yous remove the pre-filter bowl, yous have admission to the allen screw that volition allow the heater element to be removed. NOTE: This screw appears in the service manual diagrams, but no mention of it is made in the instructions. All tin be accessed from height of engine compartment. The pre-filter screen kit has the quad ring for the BOTTOM of the heater chemical element & is a different size than the top 1. I member posted that replacing replaced BOTH quad rings reduced the amt of bluish smoke on kickoff up & WOT substantially. The PN is Fleetguard 3834185-South & toll only .66 cents from Cummins!

[thanks to dodgeram.org used with permission]

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How To Remove The Fuel Heater Pre Filter 1997 Dodge,

Source: https://dieseldatabase.com/cummins-12v-fuel-prefilter-cleaning/

Posted by: mcgaugheyaguied1981.blogspot.com

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